What is ‘Direct Trade’?

What does ‘direct trade’ mean in relation to the purchasing of cacao?

My understanding is that direct trade stands for quality, fairness, respect and sustainability. 

It speaks to me of trade routes through history, linking and stitching together of origin and country of commerce. 

But what does it mean in a practical sense? Top level, it means that the chocolate maker buys beans directly from the grower. A direct channel of trade and a relationship for the mutual benefit of both parties.

Unlike Fair Trade, it is not a certification, simply a description of the relationship.

Why is direct trade a good thing?

Over 60% of the world’s cacao is grown in Ghana and the Ivory Coast (70% or more when you factor in all the other growing countries in Africa). The farm gate price in these countries is fixed by the government and is very low,  forcing cacao farmers to live in poverty. It is this poverty which creates and perpetuates issues within the industry of poor and unethical labour practices such as child labour and slavery.

There is a clear problem here. Billions of us are consuming cocoa products every year, cocoa products which are produced by millions of cocoa farmers, the majority of whom are not earning enough to rise above the poverty line. Industrial chocolate wants to keep the cacao costs low, and we just keep on buying those cheap industrial confectionery items. You have to think, if a chocolate product is very cheap, someone down the line is paying the price.

The benefits of direct trade are huge, namely that the farmer gets paid a good price for what they produce. Under the DT model, farmers receive several times more than they otherwise would, ensuring they get enough to earn a sustainable income.

For chocolate makers, direct trade provides opportunities to form relationships with the people who grow their cacao. They can then pass this connection on to consumers to help foster a greater appreciation for the chocolate. Which, in turn, leads to greater understanding of the need to pay higher prices.

As a small maker, I am buying beans from an importer, so a step removed from direct trade. Like many other craft chocolate makers wanting to make an impact, it’s as close as I’m able to get for now. In choosing to work with an importer who works directly with growers, I am assured that those relationships are in place, know that my values are upheld and am still having a positive impact on the supply chain. 

There are a couple of clear downsides to the direct trade model. For one, it’s not an indicator of cacao quality, either in the farming practices or flavour. And as there is no set minimum price structure, effectively cacao can be bought direct and not paid a fair price for.

But what about Fairtrade?

When you see the Fairtrade label on products, you most likely assume that the cocoa farmer is being paid a living income for their work. Unfortunately this is not always the case. Cocoa farmers have to pay for the Fairtrade certification, both a one-off fee and annual fees. There are instances where a farmer who has forked out for Fairtrade certification could actually be paid less for his cocoa. This is because there is a set Fairtrade minimum price, which does not fluctuate with the commodity cacao price (it’s there as a safeguard when market prices drop), and so at times it could dip below commodity.

Many small farmers cannot afford the fees to obtain Fairtrade certification. And FT does not guarantee flavour or quality, only offers some reassurance that the cocoa has been farmed without unethical labour practices.

This is a brief overview of some very complex issues. Whichever way you go with cacao sourcing and purchasing, it’s important to do your research. Make sure that your purchasing model aligns with the values you hold, and if working with a broker/importer that they are transparent.

If you are interested to read more, these are some good sources to start with:

Necessary Farm Gate Prices for a Living Income

ICCO Cocoa Market Report, September 2021

Ten Top Tips for really Tasting your chocolate (but there’s actually Nine)

Ten year old me would be jumping for joy if she heard that one day she would be a certified chocolate taster, getting to taste and evaluate chocolate from all over the world. She would say that was very cool indeed! And I cannot disagree with her, it’s been such an adventure to reach a place where I feel confident that I have a good palate and can detect a range of interesting flavour points in chocolate and pick up subtle defects. Certainly becoming a chocolate maker has helped a lot, as the additional experience helps me to understand when a defect or off-note is a recipe issue, or coming from the cocoa butter rather than the beans themselves.

My journey into the world of sensory chocolate tasting has been via the courses offered by the International Institute of Chocolate and Cacao Tasting, whom I now do some freelance work for helping to organise the courses. I took my courses in London in 2017/18 but now all courses are offered online and we have a very international student base.

I remember how hard I found it at first to identify anything other than ‘chocolate’ when asked what I could taste. Sometimes I still have those moments if I’m tasting at the wrong time of day (I’m definitely a late afternoon taster). I also remember the lightbulb moment when comparing two distinctly different samples and being able to pick something different out (spices and banana were the first notes that I remember becoming aware of beyond chocolate). I’ve been hooked since then and have had the fortune to taste many many different chocolates.

Here are my ten top tips for sensory chocolate tasting, and generally how I go about it:

1. Preparation is everything!

   Don’t expect to find subtle flavour notes while drinking (or just after) a coffee. It’s best to avoid anything strongly flavoured (toothpaste included) for an hour before you want to start. Similarly, strong aromas will really interfere with your tasting, so leave the perfume and nail polish off and sit in a room with no strong smells.

   If you plan to taste more than one chocolate, have a palate cleanser to hand. Water is fine, also thin slices of apple, or dry bread are pretty good.

   Choose a time of day when you won’t be distracted. Kids are definitely a taste bud killer, believe me!

2. If you’re starting with good craft chocolate - don’t read the tasting notes first (if you can avoid it). I find these massively influence me so I prefer to taste, make my own observations, and then read them. But, if after you’ve tasted and you’re really struggling you can look at them then!

3. Look at and admire the chocolate. Is it shiny and smooth? Does it have lots of air bubbles, any marks or streaks on it? By looking at it, we can learn something about the process and condition of the chocolate. Streaks could indicate that it’s gone out of temper which will impact the tasting experience. Also, looking at the chocolate helps to get our brains into receiving mode, and the anticipation helps the enjoyment factor massively (I’m sure there’s research on this, but that’s for another day).

4. Oh snap! You will have heard that good chocolate will have a sharp snapping sound when you break it. This isn’t actually such a big deal, and shouldn’t be considered when deciding if a chocolate’s good or not. In this heat, most chocolate won’t have a good snap anyway. White chocolate won’t really snap, milk chocolate will have a soft snap. Dark chocolate can have varying snap levels depending on recipes and tempering method… Anyway, the snap doesn’t tell you a lot, but there’s no denying that chocolate with a good snap is very satisfying.

5. Use a visual tool. When you are learning, any visual tool with suggested flavour notes can be helpful. I started with a range of visuals, including the IICCT flavour profile map (pictured), a flavour wheel and a guide that came in a Cocoa Runners subscription box. They are all useful tools in helping you to pinpoint what it is you’re tasting. I’ve put this top-tip ahead of the smell stage, as the flavour wheel/map can also be helpful in identifying aromas!

6. Smell the chocolate. Did you know that around 90% of what we experience as taste comes from the aroma? And you must have noticed that when you lose your ability to smell, things just don’t taste as good? Don’t rush this part, it’s almost as important as the tasting. Take a deep inhale, and go back a few times. The aroma will change as the chocolate warms in your fingers. Make a note of any stand out aromas (use the visual tool to help), then the fun part is to see if that aroma is there in the taste.

7. Now go! Eat the chocolate, but sloooooooowly. Let it melt on your tongue, only by allowing the chocolate to melt before we eat it can we get the full experience of the flavour. The cocoa butter needs to melt and mix with the cocoa particles fully. Munching chocolate fast shortens the experience, but also the flavour and the aftertaste disappears faster. Perhaps try eating a rubbish piece of industrial chocolate using this slow method and see how much you enjoy it (I imagine not so much!). When I am judging and wanting to give a sample my full attention, I tend to close my eyes and put my hands over my ears for the sensory exclusion. I look weird doing it but it helps me a lot!

8. Comparison is very useful. If you’re struggling to pick out the flavour notes, try comparing against another chocolate. In fact, definitely compare against another chocolate. You’ll find when you go back to the first one you’ll be able to notice how different it tastes to the second, and hone in on what is different about it. Works for me every time.

9. Notice the aftertaste. The chocolate tasting experience isn’t over once you’ve swallowed the chocolate. The aftertaste or length is an important indicator as to the quality of the chocolate. You can often pick out defects in the aftertaste that you didn’t notice while eating the chocolate. Or, the aftertaste becomes part of the flavour journey and new exciting notes can emerge up to 20 minutes after the chocolate has gone! This is why good quality dark chocolate is so much better for you, you only need a small piece and the flavour stays with you for 20-30 minutes. With cheap confectionery, the aftertaste is likely pretty bad (if you really think about it - fatty, a lot of vanilla masking over roasted cacao) which leaves you wanting to eat more to get rid of it!

I hope this is helpful if you’re embarking on learning to taste chocolate in more depth. I have plans to put on some in-person chocolate tasting sessions in the Autumn, so if you’re local to Exeter, keep your eyes peeled on @exe_chocolate for the details!

What Does ‘Craft Chocolate’ Mean?

I have been asked this question many times over the last few years, but more so since becoming a chocolate maker myself. I had the term displayed on my stall at a recent vegan market and it drew a fair amount of attention from interested and conscientious shoppers.

We are still, I believe, at the beginning of the craft chocolate movement - a movement towards understanding the value of chocolate as a ‘crafted’ item and a fine, artisan product. The term ‘craft’ in this context implies that love, care and time has been taken to create a masterpiece.

There are a few definitions floating around the internet, but no official one. So I can answer this question in terms of what craft chocolate means to me in a few bullet points. 

I believe that Craft Chocolate is:

• made from bean-to-bar (or tree-to-bar). Craft chocolate is chocolate that has been made from scratch.

• of the highest quality. The chocolate maker has spent time considering every ingredient that goes into the chocolate, and every process (roasting times, temperatures, which type of sugar to use etc).

• always about the cacao. Craft chocolate makers celebrate the range and depth of the inherent flavour in the cacao!

• Traceable and directly traded at the source. Craft chocolate makers buy their cocoa beans from a reputable supplier who has worked directly with the farmer and understands their processes, knows that they are using ethical practices, and pays substantially above the Fair Trade price.

The major difference between craft chocolate and industrial (mass market) chocolate is that industrial chocolate is all about producing consistency and volume, NOT flavour.

Although the term craft chocolate has been coined to describe the bean-to-bar movement, that’s not to say the chocolatiers using couverture (pre-made) chocolate are not producing a wonderful craft. In fact, their beautiful creations are usually far more crafty and artistic!

I see a divide emerging between craft chocolate makers and chocolatiers, with the latter being put down because of the chocolate they choose to work with. It’s easy to fall into the ‘my chocolate’s better than your chocolate’ trap when you are choosing to work in a way that prioritises farmers livelihoods and you just know that the majority of bulk produced chocolate is not slave free, and not outstanding flavour. 

There are many chocolatiers who are choosing craft chocolate or ethically produced, directly-traded chocolate to work with, and in an ideal world this number will continue to grow. But we don’t live in an ideal world, and we are a long way from the customer being prepared to pay the extra cost that this higher quality product comes at.

For me, the most important thing we can all do is to educate. Educate ourselves about where our chocolate is coming from. Stop to think before you buy that cheap confectionery item about who is really paying the price if it costs so little. And educate our customers so that the word continues to be spread. 

Anyhow, these are my ramblings on this subject which are really only just scratching the surface. To put this blog post together, I read and was informed by some excellent articles that you can find online, one from Cocoa Runners which goes into a lot of interesting detail and is definitely worth reading with a cup of tea and some chocolate. One from barandcocoa.com and another was on thechocolatelife.com. I’ve put the links to these articles in my bio.